>Did you paint yourself the letter in green ?
Yes. I use common "model airplane" type enamel paint. Its cheap and the colors are limitless. They also come in gloss, matte, satin, whatever you want..
The procedure to apply it has a few steps:
1. slop it on with the paper still on the laser cut part
2. let dry for at least several hours, remove paper
3. wipe with paint thinner to clean up the edges
4. wipe paint thinner off with isopropanol (very important, thinner with paint will stay on the panel otherwise. Alcohol will clean that off without attacking the paint)
>Where did you find the screws ?
In the US we have this glorious place called McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=j0kknt
) that has all sorts of fasteners. Those are "button head socket screws" in a black oxide finish. I used M3 ones for the PCB and M2.5 for the sides. There is a saying about that place, if they dont stock it, its not worth using
>What knobs are they ?
Those are the Kilo knobs (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=226-1092-ND&x=16&y=6&cur=USD
). Not exactly the cheapest knobs but they have some attributes that I REALLY like:
1: 6mm shaft. Most aluminum knobs here are made for 1/4" shafts. This seriously limits the number of pots and encoders that work out of the box. I've been overcoming this by making bushings to make up the difference out of 1/4" brass tube stock reamed out to 6mm but that is labor intensive and the metal cutting lathe is a drive away. These knobs fit nice and snug on standard 6mm D shafts.
2: Painted pointers: They only make these with pointers but they are silk screened on instead of machined in (like Eagle knobs) so they can be removed for endless encoders. I use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) with an ultrasonic cleaner to dissolve it. Acetone works also but takes a bit more work (soak for an hour, rub off by hand)
>Did you glue the wooden part ?
2 part 5 min epoxy. I let it thicken, adjust the alignment, and then stick in a press (i.e. a bunch of weight on top) to make sure it does not warp when it final cures
>Did you solder the screen to be able to put it under the case ?
Yes, the easy way to get this right is to attach the front panel with the LCD on the headers and flip it around so the display lays on the front panel naturally and then solder into place.