preenfm Forum
PreenFM => preenfm2 and preenfm3 => Topic started by: Megalomidiac on November 23, 2020, 10:45:59 PM
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Here are the casing files:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JYsq22sDPQFHWn75v0zNDjxGYkIbVTfn/view?usp=sharing
Added: 9VDC and USB labels to the connector panel, corrected the readme file.
New allignment for USB slot and power button. Picture of the power button connection.
Information about using the jumpers.
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Sorry i did not split the previous thread correctly.
Here are the 2 messages from Lokki that should be here :
Thanks will print them soon and see if they fit :)
i tried to import into inkscape and they open up nicely. however i cannot get the right size. what DPI do i have to set? when i print those files at 100% it is much to small...
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the size is now a 100% right.
will create a drilling template from this. thanks!
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You're welcome!
Please tell me if you find failures.
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from looking at it, the sd-slot seems to be on the wrong side, but maybe the parts can simply be switched.
still, could lead to confusion.
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The sd slot should be right, I just ordered it on the right side instead the left where it belongs on the design sheet. But I will check again.
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exactly, it is on the screen side, not on the encoder side. this brings the next question, what about the display "hole" do people make that on their own? probably a stupid question, but it does not display a hole here for the display.
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I don't know exactly what you mean. The SDcard slot will be on the left side a bit in the direction of the connection panel. It is designed to fit if the display is soldered nearly up to the top side. I made the slot anyways a bit bigger if somebody has soldered it already a bit lower. If I see it correctly, it is so big, you can place the display with the stackable headers completely down the PCB or completely up to exactly beneath the acrylic control panel.
Yes I could place it on the other side, but I think people with an FM synthesizer will be smart enough to connect together 6 simple parts correctly ;) If not, it's simple to remove and replace those parts.
And as described in the readme file, there are 4 versions: 2 for small buttons (with 3d printed adapter) with and without LCD window and the same for the bigger buttons like from the Ambika.
You can see the blue lines making a window in the 2 files with ending names "Windowed" or not ? These lines will be cutted by laser/mill. But you do not need the window, if you use clear acrylic. Then you would
take one of the versions without "Windowed" in the filename.
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Makes sense, all good! I was confused because some files did not show the blue lines for me at all with svg, so when I opened the pdf I only looked at the one that was working before and hence never saw the lcd window...
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I have edited the file.
@lokki
Did you have success with the casing?
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Not yet... I created a version of the top that is good for drilling (finding the middle of all the holes) and printed it. It seems to align well. Will take some days before I find the time to do it...
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There it is:
I had no time to put the PreenFM3 into it, but I will make this later.
The only complain is, the factory made a failure with the label alignment, so all letters are shifted 1-2mm. I mailed them and will see what they say.
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And here it is with the PreenFM3 mounted.
I have to say, the letter printing is not only wrong aligned (factory fault as what I can see).
Also it is a bit weakly printed, I used grid engraving. Maybe I should have used vector engraving for this, I will check. But no problem, as you can paint it easily with acrylic paint. I also managed to fit the power button hole and you can put on the line out protectors if you turn every 2nd one to 180 degrees.
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That's really cool.
Congrats for pushing this project to the end :)
I didn't follow the file format story. Are pdf or svg available ?
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Thanks, PDF is inside the archive file. I will also reimport the SVG file from the factory side, that should work. Wait till 20H today I will upload the new file.
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I have attached the power button. You can connect it to USB power or (like me) to the DC power.
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I have attached the power button. You can connect it to USB power or (like me) to the DC power.
Awesome ! 8) Thanks a lot for sharing the files and those pictures.
I really need one with a power button... :)
And if you don't use the power through USB, you can unplug the USB_5v jumper.
So that you can still use the midi through USB but you don't connect the 2 5v (7805 and USB) together.
(Ideally you would even be able to unplug the USB_Gnd jumper, as USB is one differential pair for the data).
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Hope you like it :)
Thanks for the infos, I will put them to the readme file later.
I have triple checked the label allignments and can't find any faults.
I mailed with the laser cutting company, but they do not see the failure on their side.
On my casing, all labels are a bit shifted to the left, so they don't allign to the button cutouts as they should.
I even proved the SVG files that you can download from the factory's server. These are the real production files and you cannot see any failure.
So I think I had bad luck with a bad callibrated monday morning machine.