16
preenfm2 and preenfm3 / Re: Firmware: PreenFM2 Bug report
« on: November 23, 2013, 03:59:03 PM »
Outstanding. I appreciate it, your device deserves the OLED treatment
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17
preenfm2 and preenfm3 / Re: Firmware: PreenFM2 Bug report
« on: November 23, 2013, 01:42:14 PM »
I tried all the alternate firmwares and all had the same behavior. This is the one I use: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/291/NHD-0420DZW-AY5-30221.pdf
18
preenfm2 and preenfm3 / Re: Firmware: PreenFM2 Bug report
« on: November 23, 2013, 04:01:44 AM »
The newhaven OLED has all sorts of issues as well. It only displays something when the menu button is pressed (nothing on start up) and then instead of increment values, it scrolls everything left to right. Everything is misaligned also and it made all sorts of noise (the display actually made noise) at the 34 setting. If it's any help, I used the same display with the Preen 1 without issues
19
preenfm2 and preenfm3 / Re: PreenFM mk2 : Continuing the discussion from the Mutable Instruments forum
« on: November 17, 2013, 02:43:47 AM »
P2 : anything + contains an input 5V. So theorically a Shruthi SMR4 filter could be plugged here controlled from the PreenFM. That's the idea, i've never tried neither writed a single line of code for this.
Oh do tell. FM Synth+analog filter = winning. Take a listen to TK's Midibox FM which has CEM VCFs added: http://midibox.org/forums/topic/6092-pimp-my-behringer/#entry40383
I will send you a built and tested SMR filterboard if you make this happen..
20
preenfm2 and preenfm3 / Re: PreenFM mk2 : Continuing the discussion from the Mutable Instruments forum
« on: November 10, 2013, 04:01:14 AM »
what's the function of the holes in the base of the case?
21
preenfm2 and preenfm3 / Re: PreenFM mk2 : Continuing the discussion from the Mutable Instruments forum
« on: November 08, 2013, 12:51:56 AM »
woo hoo! V2 here I come
22
PreenFM1 (the blue one) / Re: My Black Acrylic case
« on: November 25, 2012, 02:45:42 AM »
I've been neglecting this forum 
For reference purposes:
The OLED is thin enough that it needs no modification to the case if one is inclined to go the route I took, 10mm is plenty.
From my experience 11mm is the ideal height for spacers if you want to fit an LCD between a PCB and front panel without it poking out. This allows you to use either the "x0x" style switch caps or the Shruthi style ones. OLEDs and some LED displays will fit right off the bat but most displays will fit as well with some modifications (the tabs that hold the metal frame need to be bent inwards instead of perpendicular). This works for all Newhaven (my preferred display) parts that come in all sorts of colors
For reference purposes:
The OLED is thin enough that it needs no modification to the case if one is inclined to go the route I took, 10mm is plenty.
From my experience 11mm is the ideal height for spacers if you want to fit an LCD between a PCB and front panel without it poking out. This allows you to use either the "x0x" style switch caps or the Shruthi style ones. OLEDs and some LED displays will fit right off the bat but most displays will fit as well with some modifications (the tabs that hold the metal frame need to be bent inwards instead of perpendicular). This works for all Newhaven (my preferred display) parts that come in all sorts of colors
23
PreenFM1 (the blue one) / Re: PreenFM in red
« on: August 27, 2012, 10:25:14 PM »
TK has a CEM filters on his MBFM and it sounds pretty darn good!
(last two demos at the bottom)
http://ucapps.de/midibox_fm.html
(last two demos at the bottom)
http://ucapps.de/midibox_fm.html
24
PreenFM1 (the blue one) / Re: My Black Acrylic case
« on: August 27, 2012, 10:22:26 PM »Cut up IC sockets might work as well
I've done that for a couple of things and its marginal at best. The mill max ones are round and the "pinch" style ones work a bit better but you really have to force in those square header posts. I'll definitely try those mentioned above though. I should check and see if Samtec has low profile ones at Digikey, I've been using those for the Ambika and Shruthi stuff and they are tops
25
PreenFM1 (the blue one) / Re: My Black Acrylic case
« on: August 27, 2012, 09:48:02 PM »
^
Nice. I can think of all sorts of uses for those..
Nice. I can think of all sorts of uses for those..
26
PreenFM1 (the blue one) / Re: Cheaper chinese clone of Maple mini.
« on: August 27, 2012, 05:55:10 PM »
Honestly, why not support Leaflabs and just dish out the extra 9$? These Chinese clones rip off open source projects to make a quick buck and usually deliver a sub standard product. I had the unpleasant experience of working with a arduino clone and it was a mess..
27
PreenFM1 (the blue one) / Re: My Black Acrylic case
« on: August 26, 2012, 05:22:54 PM »
the OLED gives you some wiggle room but I dont thing there will be enough even with low profile headers
28
PreenFM1 (the blue one) / Re: My Black Acrylic case
« on: August 26, 2012, 02:10:35 PM »
OLED on:
>Did you paint yourself the letter in green ?
Yes. I use common "model airplane" type enamel paint. Its cheap and the colors are limitless. They also come in gloss, matte, satin, whatever you want..
The procedure to apply it has a few steps:
1. slop it on with the paper still on the laser cut part
2. let dry for at least several hours, remove paper
3. wipe with paint thinner to clean up the edges
4. wipe paint thinner off with isopropanol (very important, thinner with paint will stay on the panel otherwise. Alcohol will clean that off without attacking the paint)
>Where did you find the screws ?
In the US we have this glorious place called McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=j0kknt) that has all sorts of fasteners. Those are "button head socket screws" in a black oxide finish. I used M3 ones for the PCB and M2.5 for the sides. There is a saying about that place, if they dont stock it, its not worth using
>What knobs are they ?
Those are the Kilo knobs (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=226-1092-ND&x=16&y=6&cur=USD). Not exactly the cheapest knobs but they have some attributes that I REALLY like:
1: 6mm shaft. Most aluminum knobs here are made for 1/4" shafts. This seriously limits the number of pots and encoders that work out of the box. I've been overcoming this by making bushings to make up the difference out of 1/4" brass tube stock reamed out to 6mm but that is labor intensive and the metal cutting lathe is a drive away. These knobs fit nice and snug on standard 6mm D shafts.
2: Painted pointers: They only make these with pointers but they are silk screened on instead of machined in (like Eagle knobs) so they can be removed for endless encoders. I use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) with an ultrasonic cleaner to dissolve it. Acetone works also but takes a bit more work (soak for an hour, rub off by hand)
>Did you glue the wooden part ?
2 part 5 min epoxy. I let it thicken, adjust the alignment, and then stick in a press (i.e. a bunch of weight on top) to make sure it does not warp when it final cures
>Did you solder the screen to be able to put it under the case ?
Yes, the easy way to get this right is to attach the front panel with the LCD on the headers and flip it around so the display lays on the front panel naturally and then solder into place.
>Did you paint yourself the letter in green ?
Yes. I use common "model airplane" type enamel paint. Its cheap and the colors are limitless. They also come in gloss, matte, satin, whatever you want..
The procedure to apply it has a few steps:
1. slop it on with the paper still on the laser cut part
2. let dry for at least several hours, remove paper
3. wipe with paint thinner to clean up the edges
4. wipe paint thinner off with isopropanol (very important, thinner with paint will stay on the panel otherwise. Alcohol will clean that off without attacking the paint)
>Where did you find the screws ?
In the US we have this glorious place called McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=j0kknt) that has all sorts of fasteners. Those are "button head socket screws" in a black oxide finish. I used M3 ones for the PCB and M2.5 for the sides. There is a saying about that place, if they dont stock it, its not worth using
>What knobs are they ?
Those are the Kilo knobs (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=226-1092-ND&x=16&y=6&cur=USD). Not exactly the cheapest knobs but they have some attributes that I REALLY like:
1: 6mm shaft. Most aluminum knobs here are made for 1/4" shafts. This seriously limits the number of pots and encoders that work out of the box. I've been overcoming this by making bushings to make up the difference out of 1/4" brass tube stock reamed out to 6mm but that is labor intensive and the metal cutting lathe is a drive away. These knobs fit nice and snug on standard 6mm D shafts.
2: Painted pointers: They only make these with pointers but they are silk screened on instead of machined in (like Eagle knobs) so they can be removed for endless encoders. I use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) with an ultrasonic cleaner to dissolve it. Acetone works also but takes a bit more work (soak for an hour, rub off by hand)
>Did you glue the wooden part ?
2 part 5 min epoxy. I let it thicken, adjust the alignment, and then stick in a press (i.e. a bunch of weight on top) to make sure it does not warp when it final cures
>Did you solder the screen to be able to put it under the case ?
Yes, the easy way to get this right is to attach the front panel with the LCD on the headers and flip it around so the display lays on the front panel naturally and then solder into place.
29
PreenFM1 (the blue one) / My Black Acrylic case
« on: August 25, 2012, 09:39:58 PM »
If its not obvious, this only works with an OLED
30
PreenFM1 (the blue one) / Re: Cell phone charger as power supply
« on: August 13, 2012, 03:26:14 AM »
I've got a gang of motorola mini USB chargers for older Razr Phones (wife and I had 2 sets each of those phones) and they work great. Just snip off the end, slap on the B plug